What Is kbA Cotton? The Material Guide
kbA cotton is cotton from certified organic farming. The underlying organic standards are legally regulated in the EU by the EU Organic Regulation (Regulation (EU) 2018/848, in effect since January 1, 2022): no synthetic pesticides, no artificial fertilizers, no genetic engineering. In our cotton items, we use either kbA cotton or Cotton in Conversion (CiC) depending on the item; this is the transitional cotton from the generally two- to three-year conversion period from conventional to organic farming. Individual items are made of conventional cotton; the exact details are provided on each item. In this guide, you will get an honest assessment: what kbA means, why "organic" alone is insufficient, what CiC is and why we include items made from it in our assortment, how cotton compares to Modal and Lyocell, how you care for it, and where we use it for women and men.
What is kbA cotton?
kbA stands for kontrolliert biologischer Anbau (certified organic farming). The term is well-established in German-speaking countries and refers to the EU organic standards regulated by Regulation (EU) 2018/848, which has been in force since January 1, 2022, and replaces the former Regulation (EC) No 834/2007. Anyone who prints the abbreviation "kbA" or the full phrasing "aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau" on a textile label must comply with EU organic standards. Otherwise, competition law applies due to misleading labeling.
Important: Regulation 2018/848 explicitly includes unprocessed cotton in the scope of the EU organic rules. Previously, cotton was not centrally addressed in the EU Organic Regulation.
Specifically, kbA farming means:
- No synthetic pesticides. Instead of chemical sprays, mechanical and biological methods of pest control are used.
- No artificial fertilizers. Instead of synthetic nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, natural fertilizers are used.
- No genetic engineering. No genetically modified seeds may be used.
- No chemical defoliants. The plant is not chemically defoliated before harvest; this happens naturally.
- Soil transition period. The farmland must have been managed according to organic rules for a transition period of usually two to three years before the cotton is considered kbA.
At erlich textil, the main material of our cotton items is predominantly made of kbA cotton or Cotton in Conversion, with individual items made of conventional cotton. The exact fiber composition is stated on every product page.
kbA vs. "Organic," why the difference is important
The term "organic" (Bio) is clearly regulated in the food sector by the EU Organic Regulation. In the textile sector, labeling is not consistently protected to the same level. This means: "Organic cotton" can be reliable, certified cotton from controlled farming, but it can also be a loose marketing promise. If you as a buyer want to ensure reliability, look for precise terms.
The reliable designation in the DACH region is kbA. It refers to EU organic standards and is audited. "Organic" alone refers to nothing. We therefore deliberately choose the precise designation wherever kbA cotton is inside. Even if it sounds like technical jargon. For us, producing honestly also means describing honestly.
Cheat sheet for the label: "kbA" or "aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau" is the EU organic-certified version. "Organic cotton" without further reference is not necessarily reliable. "Cotton in Conversion" or "CiC" means the cotton comes from an ongoing transition to kbA farming; more on this below.
How is kbA cotton farmed?
kbA farming follows a strict set of rules. Simply put, the most important steps and prohibitions are:
- Soil preparation. Usually two to three years of transition time according to organic rules.
- Seeds. Conventional, non-genetically modified seeds. Hybrid varieties are allowed, GMOs are not.
- Fertilization. Natural fertilizers such as compost, manure, and green manure. Crop rotation with other plants additionally improves the soil.
- Pest control. Mechanical and biological. Promoting beneficial insects instead of broad-spectrum insecticides.
- Irrigation. Where possible, drip irrigation instead of flooding, which reduces water consumption.
- Harvest. Hand harvesting or mechanical harvesting. No chemical defoliants are used before the harvest.
Why conventional cotton is so problematic
Conventional cotton is among the most pesticide-intensive agricultural products worldwide. Add to this high water demand with flood irrigation in dry cultivation regions, soil erosion due to monocultures, and the burden on farming communities through chemical exposure.
kbA starts at the cultivation level: synthetic pesticides, artificial fertilizers, and genetic engineering are not allowed. That is why we believe the price premium for kbA and CiC is a good investment.
What is Cotton in Conversion (CiC) and why do we carry items made from it?
Cotton in Conversion, or CiC for short, is cotton from an ongoing transition. When a farm switches from conventional to kbA farming, the transition usually takes two to three years. During this time, the cotton is already being grown according to kbA standards but cannot yet be sold as kbA-certified. It is therefore called Cotton in Conversion.
The economic problem: farmers bear the full risk during the transition but do not yet receive an organic premium. Many are therefore hesitant to make the switch. We at erlich textil deliberately carry items made from Cotton in Conversion in our assortment and buy the fiber at the organic price, not the conventional price. You can find more details on our material page about Cotton in Conversion.
How can you recognize kbA and CiC on the label?
- "aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau" or "kbA": The cotton comes from EU organic-certified farming.
- "Cotton in Conversion" or "CiC": The cotton comes from a farm in transition to kbA farming (usually two to three years).
- "Organic cotton" without further specification: Caution. This may be reliably certified, but it doesn't have to be.
If you are looking for a model right now, take a look at our cotton underwear for women or our cotton collection for men. In both ranges, it states for every item whether the cotton is from kbA, Cotton in Conversion, or conventional farming.
kbA cotton vs. Modal vs. Lyocell, the material comparison
All three materials are cellulose-based, i.e., plant-based. But the path from raw material to fiber is very different:
| Criterion | kbA Cotton | TENCEL™ Modal | TENCEL™ Lyocell |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raw material | Cotton plant | Beech wood | Eucalyptus or beech |
| Process | Certified organic farming (EU organic) | Eco Clean, oxygen-based | Closed-Loop, NMMO, over 99 percent recovery |
| Fiber type | Natural fiber | Cellulose regenerated fiber | Cellulose regenerated fiber |
| Haptics | classic cotton-like, becomes softer with time | silky, flowing | silky, slightly more stable |
| Care | up to 60°C+ | up to 60°C, recommended 40°C | up to 60°C, recommended 40°C |
| Ideal for | classic basics, sensitive skin, robust basics | silky everyday wear, women only | active days, robust basics, women and men |
The two decisive differences: Cotton is a natural fiber that comes directly from the plant. Modal and Lyocell are regenerated fibers, obtained from wood through a chemical spinning process. If you want to delve deeper into the two cellulose sisters, there are dedicated hubs for this: What is Modal? and What is Lyocell? in the magazine. And if you are specifically interested in the comparison between Lyocell and cotton, Lyocell vs. Cotton is the longer version.
What are the properties of kbA cotton?
Cotton is the classic natural fiber; it has a clear profile:
- Classic cotton haptics, familiar and soft.
- Becomes softer with time, unlike some cellulose regenerated fibers.
- Smooth surface, resulting in low friction on the skin.
If you sweat a lot or do sports, you might feel clammy in wet cotton. For such applications, Modal or Lyocell are often the better choice.
When does kbA cotton fit better than Modal or Lyocell?
Three clear situations:
- Very sensitive skin. Cotton has a smooth fiber surface and creates little friction. Many people with sensitive skin therefore like to wear it.
- Robust basics that are washed frequently. Cotton can withstand higher washing temperatures than Modal or Lyocell.
- Classic haptics. If you like the familiar feeling of cotton and have no interest in silky-smooth cellulose, kbA cotton is your material.
How do I care for kbA cotton?
Cotton is the most robust of the three cellulose options. Still, a few rules help to extend its lifespan:
Washing. Briefs, T-shirts, and basics made of kbA cotton can withstand 40 to 60 degrees. For bras and bralettes, we recommend 30 to 40 degrees on a gentle cycle with mild detergent. Use a laundry net for lace and bralette cups. Always check the care label of the specific model.
Spin cycle. Low to medium, maximum 800 rpm. Higher spin speeds strain the fiber and increase wrinkling.
Drying. A clothesline is always the best plan. If using a tumble dryer, then on a low setting. Very hot dryer cycles cause cotton to shrink.
Ironing. Cotton tolerates high ironing temperatures, preferably with steam.
What you should avoid. Bleach on colored textiles, very hot dryer cycles, and high spin speeds.
How sustainable is kbA cotton? Factually assessed
kbA cotton differs clearly in cultivation from conventional cotton, but it is not a miracle cure. Here is our honest assessment.
What we can state as fact:
- kbA cotton is grown, controlled, and certified according to EU organic standards (Regulation 2018/848).
- No synthetic pesticides and no artificial fertilizers in cultivation; this significantly reduces the pesticide load compared to conventional cotton.
- No genetic engineering. Conventional seed is used.
- We carry items made from Cotton in Conversion in our assortment and buy the fiber at the organic price.
What we do not claim:
- kbA cotton is not climate-neutral. We do not provide a blanket CO2 balance at the fiber level.
- We refrain from using claims like "PFAS-free" or "microplastic-free" without a clear study situation.
Our position: kbA and Cotton in Conversion are the most important levers for a natural fiber like cotton. They replace the raw material, not the whole system. What counts is the entire supply chain. Our production facilities are registered via Retraced and are evaluated before being accepted.
kbA cotton at erlich textil, for women and men
Unlike Modal, we use cotton in both product ranges. In the men's range, cotton is the main natural fiber.
Women. You will find kbA cotton and Cotton in Conversion in our briefs, thongs, bralettes, T-shirts, loungewear, and nightwear. The exact fiber composition is stated on every product page, often with a small amount of elastane for stretch.
Men. Boxers, retro shorts, T-shirts, and nightwear are cotton-based. In the men's assortment, cotton is the main line, alongside TENCEL™ Lyocell. We do not carry Modal for men.
Casual Cotton. Our Casual Cotton collection is the main line made from kbA cotton and Cotton in Conversion. Full disclosure: the gusset material is made of conventional cotton (100%) - given the small quantity, it was not possible for us to obtain kbA cotton (aka the challenges of a smaller brand).
Sizes. Women's XS to XXL for bottoms and tops, bras in cross-sizes 70 to 95 with cups A to E. Men's XS to XXL for boxers and tops.
If you are looking for a model right now, take a look at cotton underwear for women or the cotton collection for men. You can read the background to our material selection on the cotton brand page.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is kbA cotton and what does the abbreviation mean?
kbA stands for "kontrolliert biologischer Anbau" (certified organic farming). It describes cotton that is grown according to EU organic standards (Regulation 2018/848): without synthetic pesticides, without artificial fertilizers, without genetic engineering, and without chemical defoliants. Anyone who prints "kbA" on a label must comply with these standards, otherwise, competition law applies.
What is the difference between kbA and "organic" cotton?
"kbA" specifically refers to EU organic standards. "Organic cotton" alone is not a consistently protected term in the textile sector and can be used reliably or loosely. If you are looking for reliability, look for "kbA," "aus kontrolliert biologischem Anbau," or a specific certification.
What is Cotton in Conversion (CiC)?
Cotton in Conversion is cotton from a farm that is currently switching from conventional to kbA farming. The transition usually takes two to three years, during which the cotton is already being grown according to kbA standards but cannot yet be sold as kbA-certified. We include items made from CiC in our assortment and buy the fiber at the organic price.
How is kbA cotton farmed?
Without synthetic pesticides, without artificial fertilizers, without genetic engineering, and without chemical defoliants. The transition period usually lasts two to three years before the cotton is considered kbA. Fertilization is done via natural fertilizers; pest control is mechanical and biological. Drip irrigation is used where possible.
At what temperature do you wash kbA cotton?
Briefs, T-shirts, and basics made of kbA cotton can withstand 40 to 60 degrees. For bras, bralettes, and more delicate models, we recommend 30 to 40 degrees on a gentle cycle with mild detergent, spin at max. 800 rpm, and use a laundry net for lace. Avoid bleach for colored textiles. Always check the care label of the specific model.
Is kbA cotton sustainable?
That depends on your criteria. Factually: The kbA standard is regulated by EU law (Regulation 2018/848) and reduces pesticides, artificial fertilizers, and genetic engineering compared to conventional farming. What kbA is not: climate-neutral. We do not make such blanket claims.
Which kbA cotton products does erlich textil carry?
For women: briefs, thongs, bralettes, T-shirts, loungewear, nightwear, an overview in our cotton underwear for women. For men: boxers, retro shorts, T-shirts, and nightwear in the cotton collection for men. The Casual Cotton collection is our main line made from kbA and Cotton in Conversion.
Sources
- Regulation (EU) 2018/848 on organic production and labelling of organic products, in force since 1 January 2022.




