Lyocell is a cellulose fibre made from wood, typically eucalyptus or beech. We use TENCEL™ Lyocell from Lenzing in Austria. It is produced in a closed-loop process where over 99 per cent of the solvent is recovered. The fibre is silky-smooth, breathable, dimensionally stable even when wet, and biodegradable according to Lenzing. In this guide you get an honest read: what lyocell is, how it is made, how it compares with modal and cotton, how to care for it, and where we use it at erlich textil, in both women's and men's ranges.
What is lyocell?
Lyocell is a regenerated fibre made from 100 per cent natural cellulose, sourced from wood. It belongs to the same family as viscose and modal: all three start from cellulose. What sets lyocell apart is the production process. The raw material is still wood, but the chemical pulping and spinning step works differently than for viscose or modal. Technically lyocell is, like modal, semi-synthetic: a natural raw material that is industrially spun into fibre.
The main raw materials for lyocell are eucalyptus and beech from sustainably managed forests. Eucalyptus grows quickly and needs little water. Beech often comes from European forests. Both are sourced by Lenzing under FSC and PEFC certification, that is, from certified forestry.
TENCEL™ Lyocell vs. generic lyocell
Lyocell is a generic fibre name; TENCEL™ is the brand. At erlich textil we exclusively use TENCEL™ Lyocell from Lenzing. The difference to generic lyocell from other producers is twofold: first the wood source, Lenzing relies on FSC and PEFC certification; second the process, Lenzing operates the original closed-loop technology and publishes process data on it regularly.
If a care label just says “lyocell”, you have no information on wood source or producer standards. If it says “TENCEL™ Lyocell” or “Lenzing Lyocell”, you do.
How is lyocell made? The closed-loop process
Lyocell is the youngest of the three big cellulose fibres (viscose, modal, lyocell), and technically the cleanest process. Simplified steps:
- Wood sourcing. Eucalyptus or beech wood from FSC- and PEFC-certified forests is de-barked and chipped.
- Pulping. Pure cellulose is extracted from the wood chips.
- Direct dissolution with NMMO. The cellulose is dissolved in an organic solvent called N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO). NMMO is non-toxic and biodegradable.
- Spinning. The viscous cellulose solution is extruded through fine nozzles into a coagulation bath, where the fibre solidifies.
- Solvent recovery. Over 99 per cent of the NMMO is recovered from the coagulation bath and routed back into spinning. This is the closed-loop principle.
- Yarn and fabric. Fibres are spun into yarn, dyed and woven or knitted into fabric.
Compared with conventional viscose, the lyocell process is significantly less polluting because the problematic sulphur chemistry is removed and the solvent loop is largely closed. Compared with modal, lyocell uses a different process with a higher recovery rate.
Why is lyocell considered the most eco-conscious cellulose fibre?
Three concrete reasons:
- Closed-loop. Over 99 per cent NMMO recovery, according to Lenzing data. That dramatically reduces chemical load in production.
- Non-toxic solvent. NMMO is non-toxic in acute exposure and biodegradable, unlike the sulphur compounds in viscose production.
- Biodegradability. Lyocell fibres fully decompose in industrial composting, according to Lenzing.
Important context: these advantages refer to fibre production. What happens afterwards (dyeing, cut-and-sew, transport, wearing, washing) follows similar paths in lyocell garments as in other fabrics. A serious overall CO2 footprint depends on the whole supply chain, not the fibre alone.
Properties of lyocell
Lyocell has a clearly defined profile. Here is what you feel on your skin and what the fibre delivers technically:
- Silky-smooth hand, thanks to the smooth fibre surface.
- Highly breathable and moisture-regulating, wicks sweat outward quickly.
- Dimensionally stable even when wet, unlike viscose or cotton.
- Skin-friendly, less friction than rougher natural fibres, well suited for sensitive skin.
- Easy-care, wrinkles little, irons easily.
- Long-lasting, high tensile strength also when wet.
- Vegan, plant-based cellulose fibre with no animal-derived components.
The fibre is also the all-rounder for active wear. If you sweat a lot, lyocell is often the better pick over cotton because it moves moisture outward instead of storing it. And if you want underwear that holds shape across many wash cycles, lyocell beats most other cellulose fibres.
When does lyocell beat cotton or modal?
Three clear situations:
- Active days and sport. Lyocell wicks moisture faster and stays dimensionally stable when wet. Cotton stays damp; modal is silkier but less stable under heavy movement.
- Long-life basics. If you want underwear that still feels like new after 50 wash cycles, lyocell is often the most robust cellulose option.
- Very sensitive skin. The smooth fibre surface reduces friction. On irritated skin, lyocell often feels gentler than coarser cotton qualities.
Looking for a piece now? Browse our lyocell underwear for women or the lyocell bodies. For men, there is a dedicated lyocell collection for men.
Lyocell vs. modal vs. cotton, the cellulose comparison
All three fibres are cellulose-based, so plant-derived. They differ in raw material, process and use:
| Criterion | TENCEL™ Lyocell | TENCEL™ Modal | Certified-organic cotton (kbA) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raw material | Eucalyptus or beech | Beech wood | Cotton plant |
| Process | Closed-loop, NMMO, over 99 per cent recovery | Eco Clean, oxygen-based | Certified organic farming (kbA standard) |
| Hand | silky, slightly more stable than modal | silky, fluid | classic cotton, more robust |
| Moisture | excellent, stable even when wet | good, better than cotton | high absorption, stays damp |
| Breathability | high | high | high |
| Care | up to 60 °C, 40 °C recommended | up to 60 °C, 40 °C recommended | 60 °C and above |
| Drying time | fast | medium | slow |
| Wet stability | very high | medium | medium |
| Ideal for | active days, long-life basics, women and men | silky everyday, women only | classic basics, sensitive skin |
If you want a detailed lyocell-versus-cotton comparison, we covered that in our magazine article Lyocell vs. Cotton. And if you want to dive into modal specifically, there is a dedicated hub article What is Modal Fabric? in the magazine.
When to pick which
- Lyocell, when you want active days, sport, lots of movement or particularly long-life basics. We use lyocell in both women's and men's ranges.
- Modal, when a particularly silky everyday hand matters most. We deliberately use modal in the women's range only.
- Certified-organic cotton (kbA), when you love a classic cotton hand or want especially robust basics. Our cotton underwear for women is fully from certified-organic farming or Cotton in Conversion.
How to care for lyocell
Lyocell is easy to care for and very robust, but a few rules massively extend its lifespan.
Washing. Lyocell tolerates 30 to 60 °C, but we recommend maximum 40 °C on a gentle cycle with mild detergent. Spin low, 600 rpm is plenty. Put bralettes, bras and lace pieces in a mesh wash bag to avoid friction with hooks and fastenings of other items.
Drying. Lyocell can go in the tumble-dryer if the care label allows. We still recommend the clothesline: gentler on the fibre and on your electricity bill. Lyocell advantage: the fibre stays dimensionally stable when wet, so you don't strictly need to dry large pieces lying flat as you would with modal.
Ironing. Lyocell wrinkles little. If you do iron: low to medium setting, ideally with steam.
What to avoid: bleach, very hot dryer cycles, aggressive spin programmes and harsh full-load detergents. Skip those and your lyocell piece stays dimensionally stable and keeps its silky hand for years.
How sustainable is lyocell? An honest take
Lyocell is often called the most eco-friendly cellulose fibre. Here is our honest read, without greenwashing.
What we can say factually:
- Eucalyptus and beech wood from FSC®- and PEFC™-certified forestry, according to Lenzing.
- Closed-loop process with over 99 per cent NMMO recovery, according to Lenzing data.
- NMMO is a non-toxic, biodegradable solvent, unlike the sulphur compounds used in viscose production.
- Lyocell fibres are biodegradable in industrial composting, according to Lenzing.
- Lower water use in fibre production than cotton, according to Lenzing.
- Our supply chain is OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified for residual chemicals.
What we deliberately don't claim:
- Lyocell is not carbon-neutral. A blanket CO2 claim isn't defensible at the fibre level.
- Lyocell is not GOTS-certified. GOTS applies to natural fibres like cotton, not to regenerated cellulose.
- We avoid claims like “PFAS-free” or “microplastic-free” without clear study data.
Our position: among the three big cellulose fibres (viscose, modal, lyocell), lyocell has the lowest process footprint. That is good, but no free pass. What matters is the whole supply chain, not just the fibre. We pair lyocell with OEKO-TEX 100 certified suppliers and transparent production sites in Europe.
Lyocell at erlich textil, for women and men
Unlike modal, we deliberately use lyocell across both ranges, because the fibre delivers in both women's and men's collections.
Women. Lyocell appears in our bodies, briefs, strings, tops, loungewear and sleepwear. Often blended with lace or with a modal mix, depending on the style. The exact fibre composition is always on the product page.
Men. For men we use lyocell to deliver the silky direction, because we don't use modal in our men's range. You will find lyocell in boxer styles, T-shirts, sleepwear and loungewear. The Light Touch collection is our main TENCEL™ Lyocell line for men.
Sizes. Women: XS to XXL for bottoms and bodies, bras in band sizes 70 to 95 with cups A to E. Men: XS to XXL for boxers and tops.
Production. TENCEL™ Lyocell comes from Lenzing in Austria. The fabric is processed in Portugal (Light Touch line) and partly in Türkiye. Sewing happens in European workshops depending on the style.
If you want to shop a piece now: browse lyocell underwear for women, lyocell bodies or the lyocell collection for men.
Frequently asked questions
What is lyocell and what is it made of?
Lyocell is a cellulose fibre made from wood, mostly eucalyptus or beech. We exclusively use TENCEL™ Lyocell from Lenzing in Austria. It is produced in a closed-loop process where over 99 per cent of the NMMO solvent is recovered. Lyocell is silky, breathable and biodegradable according to Lenzing.
What is the difference between lyocell and cotton?
Lyocell is an engineered cellulose fibre from wood; cotton is a natural fibre harvested directly from the plant. Lyocell is silkier, more dimensionally stable when wet, and wicks moisture faster. Cotton absorbs more moisture but stays damp longer. For active days or long-life basics, lyocell is often the better pick; for a classic cotton hand and especially robust basics, choose certified-organic cotton.
What is the difference between lyocell and modal?
Both are cellulose fibres from Lenzing, but the process is different. Lyocell uses the closed-loop process with NMMO, recovering over 99 per cent of the solvent. Modal uses the Eco Clean technology with oxygen-based bleaching chemistry. Sensorially, modal is slightly silkier; lyocell is slightly more stable. At erlich textil we use lyocell in both women's and men's ranges, modal only in the women's range.
At what temperature do I wash lyocell?
Lyocell handles 30 to 60 °C. We recommend a maximum of 40 °C on a gentle cycle with mild detergent, low spin (max. 600 rpm), a mesh wash bag for lace and bralettes, no bleach. That keeps the silky hand for the long run.
Is lyocell really sustainable?
It depends on your criteria. Factually: TENCEL™ Lyocell is made from FSC- and PEFC-certified wood, the closed-loop process recycles over 99 per cent of the solvent, and the fibre is biodegradable according to Lenzing. What lyocell isn't: carbon-neutral or GOTS-certified. We deliberately avoid those blanket claims.
Is lyocell vegan?
Yes. Lyocell is made from wood, a plant-based cellulose fibre with no animal-derived components. We don't separately label it “vegan” because we don't run a systematic vegan certification, but the fibre itself contains no animal components.
What lyocell products does erlich textil offer?
For women: bodies, briefs, strings, tops, loungewear and sleepwear. Browse the overview in our lyocell underwear for women. For men: boxers, T-shirts and sleepwear in the lyocell collection for men. The exact fibre composition is on every product page.
Sources
- Lenzing, TENCEL™ Lyocell: closed-loop process, NMMO, FSC/PEFC, biodegradability.
- FSC: Forest Stewardship Council forestry certification.
- PEFC: Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification.
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100: residual-chemical certification for textiles.
